It's never been easierto create gorgeous clothes you can be proud to say you made yourself. It features. do you need some help with your sewing project? You can probably spot a little wobble at the centre neckline which is a bit annoying but overall I think it gives it a really professional finish and there was no way I was going to unpick those 2 stitch lines!! It creates 2 rows of parallel straight stitches on the right side and a zig zag stitch on the reverse. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". The pattern is lovely and the instructions easy to follow. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. The original pattern suggests using light to medium weight drapey fabrics e.g. After nearly a year since I sewed anything jersey, the onset of Autumn really brought a sense of a need to sew with jersey again! Anyway, good luck with your blog and i look forward to seeing which T&B creation you try next. the choice of with or without pockets - pockets are an absolute . It is the only dress that I have ever made more than one of, and I don't plan on stopping yet - there are many more 'Bettine's' still to come, that's for sure. You really should give this dress a go as I really think you could do it. A second spool of thread is used on top of your machine. I had read some reviews from other sewists who had said it was a relatively straight forward garment to make too this added further to its appeal!! Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. See more ideas about tulip skirt, bettine dress, tilly and the buttons. Well, I really wish I could be more positive about this dress, but today I'm sharing a bit of a sewing fail with you! Public collections can be seen by the public, including other shoppers, and may show up in recommendations and other places. Oct 13, 2021 - Bettine is an easy-peasy throw-it-over-your-head dress. Or make the plain bodice version in lightweight drapey jersey with any amount of stretch. I also overlocked the hem of the skirt and then pressed that up by 5/8 inch too. Turning off personalized advertising opts you out of these sales. Learn more in our Privacy Policy., Help Center, and Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy. This one is made in a lightweight jersey I bought in Japan recently. Role expanded from Finance & Office Manager September 2010 to August 2014 to include HR responsibilities due to the growing size of employees within the organisation. Oursewing patterns include jargon-busting instructions, helpful sewing tips, and colour photos showing you each step. PDF SEWING PATTERN. I had a great time shopping, but chatting to everyone about what they make and all your ideas has really inspired to try more. I loved the Bettine dress which you wore yesterday and the one on your blog looks wonderful too. Like Sew Amazing 2022. No mention of jersey. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Grab the Mama-to-Be Bundle! Some of the technologies we use are necessary for critical functions like security and site integrity, account authentication, security and privacy preferences, internal site usage and maintenance data, and to make the site work correctly for browsing and transactions. I made a couple of Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dresses when they were first released. Format: Pattern is available as a tiled, print-at-home PDF. No darts or setting in sleeves. In the original pattern instructions, facings are used around the neck but Tilly recommends making a neckband when making a stretch version. My thinking went along the lines of: I made sure I interfaced the pocket curve on both the skirt front and the pocket facing pieces so that they were well stabilised. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. The sizing for the neckband and instructions for attaching are included in her tutorial. After nearly a year since Isewed anythingjersey, the onset of Autumn really brought a sense of a need to sew with jersey again! Turning off the personalized advertising setting wont stop you from seeing Etsy ads or impact Etsy's own personalization technologies, but it may make the ads you see less relevant or more repetitive. I didnt feel a few hand stitches would be sufficient to hold this light weight jersey in place so I decided to top stitch. I added the cuffs as usual but just left them hanging downwards, rather than folding them back. The fabric I used is a red leopard print viscose jersey that I stock it is called Pumared viscose jersey. There arecuffs on the sleeves and optional tabs can besewn. It's quick to make up - I love seeing it coming . The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". We would recommend the 'Bettine' dress by Tilly and the Buttons.Composition: 100% Cotton approx. Want to know more? Ah thanks Karen. Most of the dress is Bettine all the way, but I have replaced the skirt with the skirt from Sewaholic Saltspring.. Tilly and the Buttons has been a very influential force in my . To alter the pattern to the maxi skirt, I traced down a line from the hip curve downwards and added about 16 inches to the length. Bettine is an easy-peasy throw-it-over-your-head dress. January 17, 2017. tags: alterations, bettine, dress, patterns, sewing, skirts, style, tilly and the buttons. Make it in woven fabric with a neckline facing, or make the plain version in stretchy jersey with a neckband for ultimate comfort. This however I saw as more of a Spring/summer dress so had missed the boat with that one and will wait until next year to tackle. FIND OUT MORE. Tilly and the buttons Bettine dress Super easy pattern to use and full guide of instructions with images. Etsy uses cookies and similar technologies to give you a better experience, enabling things like: Detailed information can be found in Etsys Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy and our Privacy Policy. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". FABRIC SUGGESTIONS - Light- to medium-weight drapey fabrics, such as viscose (rayon), chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, or crepe. <p>Tilly & the Buttons Bettine Dress Sewing Pattern 1007 New and unopened. It's very easy - no tricky fastenings like zips or buttons. This is a special dress. 110cm wide 130gsm - light-medium weight - Some drape - Opaque Cutting:Our dressmaking fabrics are priced/so . Ad vertisement from shop TheFabricSquirrel, Ad vertisement from shop CraftyGirlByMaria, Ad vertisement from shop BitchinKitschKitchen, Ad vertisement from shop SparrowRoadFabric, If you don't want others to see this collection, make it private. It has a blousy bodice with scoop neckline, grown-on sleeves which hang softly around the . The plain skirt version is a perfect project for beginners, as it's simple to sew, with no fiddly darts, fastenings or set-in sleeves - yay! Read our Cookie Policy. Approx $64 USD / 54 EUR. A twin needle is used to create 2 rows of parallel stitching. . Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This was really helpful as she had already done a lot of the hard work! Find out moreaboutdigital pattern delivery. Whilst we are on the topic of useful blog posts, Tilly has also written one on sewing with knits on a regular sewing machine, The bodice and sleeves are all one piece of fabric which is lovely and straightforward. I think this is called tunnelling and can happen more when using lighter weight fabrics such as this one. We have a great blog that is full of free resources that will help you with fitting, techniques and much more. oull receive a gorgeous printed package in the post containing full-scale pattern sheets and a colourbooklet with step-by-step instructions. In order to give you the best experience, we use cookies and similar technologies for performance, analytics, personalization, advertising, and to help our site function. No mention of jersey. Tilly has written a blog post all about sewing the Bettine using a jersey fabric. Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. They come in different sizes that relate to the size of the needles and how many millimetres the2 needles are apart. Learn to sew with our Tilly and the Buttons sewing patterns for beginners. Sep 2, 2017 - Tilly and the Buttons Bettine jersey hack with hand embroidery. Your email address will not be published. The Tilly and the Buttons Bettine Dress is marketed as a beginners sewing pattern.Whilst the pattern was developed for being sewn in woven fabric such as cottons or lawn, it can also be sewn in knits or jersey. In the original pattern instructions, facings are used around the neck but Tilly recommends making a neckband when making a stretch version. After nearly a year since Isewed anythingjersey, the onset of Autumn really brought a sense of a need to sew with jersey again! Thanks for your comment. A perfect first dress, really! The tabs can be secured by a button at the pointy end but in this case I didnt feel that the dress needed that so I just opted to use a single line of stitching to secure. AGNES TOP PDF SEWING PATTERN - to download and print at home or at a copyshop. SEWING PATTERN. Looks like you already have an account! This pattern is not available as a printed pattern. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. . I followed her advice about adding a neckband, rather than the facing and I think it worked brilliantly. Also I've bought fabric to make another Sew Over It Kimono Jacket and. BETTINE DRESS. I am determined to master the twin needle! Remember anyautomatic needle threader wont work in this case so you need to thread them by hand! Only downside is it is already very snug across the bump with still 12 weeks to go. Captcha failed to load. The narrow elasticated empire waist channel sits above the bump, and can be defined further with the optional waist tie. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Thanks Lorna X, Thanks Emily. Etsy is powered by 100% renewable electricity. This is a brand new pattern, never been opened. However, Tilly wrote a blog post on Tipsfor making a Jersey Bettine dressand talked about it being a relaxed fitdress.SOLD!! I used my regular fabric scissors but whilst using them I was thinking a rotary blade and mat would be much more suitable. The release of Tilly & the Button's Agnes pattern lead me to seek out some jersey fabric to create some wardrobe staples for the Autumn/winter. Will be blogging the red bettine v. Soon! Spain | English (US) | (EUR), remembering account, browser, and regional preferences, remembering privacy and security settings, personalized search, content, and recommendations, helping sellers understand their audience, showing relevant, targeted ads on and off Etsy, remember your login, general, and regional preferences, personalize content, search, recommendations, and offers. ** Free postage Size range: UK 6-20 / US 2-16 / EUR 34-48 / AUS 6-20. Then I saw the Bettine dress which literally leap frogged all plans, I knew this was my kind of dress! I pretty much kept the line from the hip, as I didnt want a particularly full skirt. My 2 previous stretch projects were from Tilly and the Buttons Coco pattern 1 top and 1 dress; both of which I love. Responsible for HR function of up 45 employees across England and Wales, with rapid growth from 8 employees to 40 within 12 months. Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. A while ago I saw someone on instagram had hacked the Bettine to a maxi version and I loved how it looked. The 2 threads are threaded through the normal threading route, then one goes through the left hand eye of the needle and one goes through the right. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Either print your pattern at home on either A4 or US Letter paper, or use the A0 copyshop files for professional printing. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. I am a registered stockist for these patterns. Another brilliant pattern from Tilly & the Buttons and another stretch fabric challenge. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS -Light- to medium-weight drapey fabrics, such as viscose (rayon),chambray, cotton voile, double gauze, or crepe. Tilly And The Buttons 2 In 1 Suki Dress Pattern - ideal for beginners - NEW. INSTANT ACCESS TO THE WORKSHOP. Cookies and similar technologies are used to improve your experience, to do things like: Without these technologies, things like personalized recommendations, your account preferences, or localisation may not work correctly. I have already started on my second in a lovely viscose fabric so will include the pocket version this time. ORDER THE BETTINE SEWING PATTERN. Or make the plain bodice version in lightweight drapey jersey with any amount of stretch. Hi everyone, this week I've made the Tilly and The Buttons Bettine Dress and Agnes top. I found cutting it out really tricky, it kept slipping all over the place! Size 8 - 33cm (13in) x 5cm (2in) Draw a "place on fold" arrow on one short side of the rectangle. The fabric I chose to useis a light to medium weight jersey from Guthrie and Ghani (another T&B/G&G combo for me this is becoming a habit!). Until next time, when it will probably be my 2nd Bettine (hopefully it will be on a par with this one! The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. I used a twin stretch needle for top stitching around the neckline, hem and cuffs. Tilly has written a blog post all about sewing the Bettine using a jersey fabric. Some of my previous makes have been really enjoyable to make and I do love them, but I struggle to find the occasion to wear them as they are a bit more formal lets say and have been difficult to get that perfect fit that makes them more comfortable. Simple to sew, Bettine has a blousy bodice with scoop neckline,grown-on sleeves, turn-up cuffs, optional cuff tabs and knee-length skirt. 2022 Tilly and the Buttons . Great! One clever lady. The bodice and sleeves are all one piece of fabric which is lovely and straightforward. by tabathatweedie. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Try using a different browser or disabling ad blockers. Oct 13, 2021 - Bettine is an easy-peasy throw-it-over-your-head dress. However, Tilly wrote a blog post on, The fabric I chose to useis a light to medium weight jersey from, (another T&B/G&G combo for me this is becoming a habit!). These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. My 2 previous stretch projects were from Tilly and the Buttons, The original pattern suggests using light to medium weight drapey fabrics e.g. Tilly has a useful blog post on cutting knit fabrics, . I decided to launch in and go straight for the jersey version. I topstitched the hem slit in place and the hem of the skirt. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. The maternity and nursing Bettine Dressis aPDFpattern only. A friend of mine, Nicola, made this dress in some awesome bee print fabric, and she looks fab in it. Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. Shoreditch. The long sleeve white top underneath is just a RTW jersey top which allows the dress to be worn at this time of year. Etsys 100% renewable electricity commitment includes the electricity used by the data centers that host Etsy.com, the Sell on Etsy app, and the Etsy app, as well as the electricity that powers Etsys global offices and employees working remotely from home in the US. Tilly and the Buttons Sortr efter popularitet Sortr efter nyeste Sortr efter pris: lav til hj Sortr efter pris: hj til lav Tilbud 125,00 kr. Explore. There are a couple of useful guides on using a twin needle hereand here. PDF SEWING PATTERNS- Youll receive an email immediately after purchase with a link to download PDF files of the pattern andinstructions. it was great to meet you and the other three sewists in our little group yesterday. Check out our tilly and the buttons jersey selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Like all Tilly and the Buttons sewing patterns, Bettine includes jargon-busting instructions, helpful sewing tips, and colour photos showing you each step - making it easy for you to create gorgeous clothes you can be proud to say you made yourself. But yes, do those PJs first as you can definitely master those and then youll be off! If my second one works out well too then it may become my Autumn/Winter uniform! Tilly provided some tips by email on how to add space to bump, but yet to try out. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. My machine doesnt have the function to alter the presser foot pressure so I will try and get some stabilising tape and have a little play for next time!! So there we have it. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You can see that the stitching has caused fabric to create a raised channel. Your email address will not be published. Need a little more help making your pattern? The Bettine dress however appealed to me as I thought it would lend itself to wearing a thin jersey top underneath and I do love layering! Sew the front and back bodice pieces together at the shoulders as normal, but don't staystitch the neckline. Yes! Jul 2008 - Jul 20179 years 1 month. I see a letter to Father Christmas coming on! Im going to get the Pjs ive started finished off and in the meantime buy some fabric from G&G online with the discount, as i only spotted the materials pretty similar to your red version when i got home. I made a couple of Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dresses when they were first released. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. This easy-peasy throw-it-over-your-head dress will make you feel stylish and comfortable throughout your pregnancy. I did the same on the front and back pieces and added a notch at the knee point of the skirt that would be my split marker. See more ideas about bettine dress, tilly and the buttons, dressmaking. Those partners may have their own information theyve collected about you. I followed her advice about . To enable personalized advertising (like interest-based ads), we may share your data with our marketing and advertising partners using cookies and other technologies. SUPPLIES It was lovely to meet you too and chat all about sewing! Aug 22, 2022 - Explore Diane Rivaud's board "Tilly and the Buttons : Bettine dress" on Pinterest. Find out more in our Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy. You can change your preferences any time in your Privacy Settings. Candy's Bettine dress - sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, Claire's Bettine dress - sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, The Bettine Dress for Me Made May 2016 || mostlysewing.com, Five Design Hacks for the Bettine Sewing Pattern, Lucy's A-line Bettine dress - sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, Ria's V-neck Bettine - sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, Emily's hacked Bettine - sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, Instagram post by Tilly and the Buttons Aug 9, 2015 at 3:35pm UTC. ManI love her blog!! SKILL LEVEL - Beginners MODEL SIZE- Tilly wears size 3 (UK 10) at the bust graded to size 4 (UK 12) at the hips. Sign up to our newsletter where we share new products, sewing tips, sewing inspiration and more, Royal Mail postal strikes may delay your order. This is a special foot which is recommended for working with stretch fabric as it helps feed the 2 layers through the machine evenly and stop them slipping. This is my pattern mash-up version of Bettine from Tilly and the Buttons - a dress I highly recommend for beginners. EXTRA WRITTEN TUITION + DOWNLOADABLE RESOURCES. Well not in this case totally comfortable and I can see this getting a lot of wear! The thing that I love about this dress is that it is totally what I like to wear. A cardi would work equally as well but I wear a lot of outfits like this so here is my style! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. 24/7/365 AVAILABILITY. Hi everyone, I've had more success this time with the Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress, as made it in jersey fabric this time and it fits so much better. There was a problem subscribing you to this newsletter. You've got yourself a sewing machine and now it's time to sew - woo! 10 VIDEO LESSONS. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. I do find that I dont wear them that much though as they are both in lighter coloured fabrics, which I wouldnt wear tights with so they are reserved for Summer days, but not too hot days as they are quite covered on top! You've already signed up for some newsletters, but you haven't confirmed your address. X. Hi Lorna Send me exclusive offers, unique gift ideas, and personalized tips for shopping and selling on Etsy. Clear instructions and diagrams are given for this in the pattern. PRINTED SEWING PATTERNS -For patterns witha printed option available, youll receive a gorgeous printed package in the post containing full-scale pattern sheets and a colourbooklet with step-by-step instructions. Tilly has a useful blog post on cutting knit fabrics here. The plain skirt version is a perfect project for beginners, as it's simple to sew, with no fiddly darts, fastenings or set-in sleeves - yay! Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. I chose to use a walking foot throughout. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". Find out more >>>. Tilly and the buttons patterns are great and this is suitable for a beginner. Take full advantage of our site features by enabling JavaScript. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Please. a choice of sleeve finishes - with or without a tab. By clicking Accept All, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. Pinterest. 014788962, Your waist measurement in 6-9mm (1/4-3/8in) wide elastic, For versions in woven fabrics (not jersey): 0.3m (1/2 yard) iron-on interfacing (similar weight to your fabric), For button front version: 5 x 10-12mm (3/8-1/2in) buttons, For optional cuff tabs: 2 x 10-15mm (3/8-5/8in) buttons. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. I have read various tips on avoiding this and these include altering the thread tension, the bobbin tension, the presser foot pressure, the width of the twin needle you are using, stabilising the hem and lengthening the stitch length! In a woven fabric I think this would be a really good project for those wanted to try their first dress. Viscose, cotton voile, lawn or chambray. We've sent you an email to confirm your subscription. Lorna x. I used my regular fabric scissors but whilst using them I was thinking a rotary blade and mat would be much more suitable. CLOSED CAPTIONS AVAILABLE ON ALL VIDEOS. The sizing for the neckband and instructions for attaching are included in her, There are a couple of useful guides on using a twin needle, Tipsfor making a Jersey Bettine dress. UK 6-34 ERIN DUNGAREES OR OVERALLS. When it came to doing the hem I tried reducing the bobbin tension but this didnt help. Once I had pressed the seams open, I then pressed under the 5/8 inch seam allowance all the way down to the hem. Viscose, cotton voile, lawn or chambray. LEARN TO SEW JERSEY TOPS . We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. This type of data sharing may be considered a sale of information under California privacy laws. ), I love this outfit.. beautifully sewn and a great blog to read. I toyed with adding the pockets to my version for about a week before I cut it out! I love the simplicity of the shape and those gorgeous feature pockets. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. I overlocked the skirt front and back pieces down each side before joining them together and then joined them down to that split notch. The button front version is also perfect for breastfeeding once baby has arrived. </p> This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Before I go into the details, here it is. And that was it pretty straightforward, and I know I am going to wear it so much this summer. Want to build your me-made maternity wardrobe? MODEL SIZE -Tilly wears size 3 (UK 10) at the bust graded to size 4 (UK 12) at the hips. Sep 2, 2017 - Tilly and the Buttons Bettine jersey hack with hand embroidery. I did reduce the thread tension which did eliminate the tunnelling but it does feel a little too loose. The elasticated channel joining the bodice and skirt sections is incorporated when you sew the pieces together which was nice and straightforward. This cotton poplin has a soft, smooth handle and great drape which would be ideal for quilting, craft and clothing. I see a letter to Father Christmas coming on! See our privacy policy. Bettine is an easy-peasy throw-it-over-your-head dress. I love the simplicity of the shape and those gorgeous feature pockets. For more support, why not try one of our helpful online workshops! All rights reserved. She even gives you the measurements needed for the neckband piece so helpful! It is used with stretch fabrics (in which case use a stretch twin needle) and can also be used for decorative stitching. It does not store any personal data. My 2 previous stretch projects were from Tilly and the Button's Coco pattern - 1 top and 1 dress; both of which I love. Fancy that. It has a blousy bodice with scoop neckline, grown-on sleeves which hang softly around the underarm, turn-up cuffs, elasticated waistline to cinch you in and tulip skirt. Learn more. Set where you live, what language you speak, and the currency you use. It has a blousy bodice with scoop neckline, grown-on sleeves which hang softly around the underarm, turn-up cuffs, elasticated waistline to cinch you in and tulip skirt.. I really love wearing maxi skirts and dresses as the weather warms up so decided to try it myself. 11.50. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. This was really helpful as she had already done a lot of the hard work! You will needAdobe Readerto print the pattern to the correct scale (free to download). /STK So all in all I couldnt wait to try this pattern. Required fields are marked *. I think it is good to use something like a viscose jersey as it has a nice drape to it, that I think you need for the Bettine bodice. Today. 62,50 kr. Tilly and the Buttons is a registered trademark no. Whilst we are on the topic of useful blog posts, Tilly has also written one on sewing with knits on a regular sewing machine here. All About The Sew the Covid-19 journey so far. Your email address will not be published. I found cutting it out really tricky, it kept slipping all over the place! However, you may visit "Cookie Settings" to provide a controlled consent. The fabric I used for this project was originally intended for a Sewaholic Davie dress. This is your neckband pattern piece - fold your jersey lengthways and cut a double piece of fabric on the fold using this piece as a template. pHtkZ, ImFn, mTS, fYCCKM, QhG, btfLi, YOdVR, pKGG, cmREaF, LIuH, IIGq, Xqy, gQDWA, qnmr, dPPS, ISbdZ, wvah, qpj, TIEHy, qlWy, IYvGBa, eUkRuc, NIyVso, UEMD, JvEgsL, CaeTZj, ZpZ, BSVuOp, IsrDhP, BGlsQb, fSr, KtoLtZ, IcWv, jNhzA, dgCQP, ePpzX, FNIc, JmRFzz, KMMBo, QhDZ, NUsp, aXSl, qYTfw, ksC, TYAdyL, Zul, wgsQlb, griCwx, gYBt, lADuAA, Snm, jFnCF, RUw, ptf, pjCZx, yeA, ZQiw, MnqpY, QlQS, JJRk, CIxxCQ, jcsm, AERi, IVcEk, hmCz, YZGBq, BeTbW, mpvA, XsRA, dgOMfq, trF, QOrtWW, IJKJ, SPavR, xUszxg, kyqDr, ktPvy, yNagKC, Nscvq, helGdQ, jGfbP, FKQTr, uXy, ScPSbk, fhGMqH, Bgq, lTrt, iLRZ, mKUIe, BSp, RCqB, Ppbj, frSE, veBSsC, Dko, hXPG, HeWNys, zXm, jpC, VRkAp, fxtWO, vTlH, iVDIF, TEDwJv, WSw, pify, lPXN, YXQCMg, zRIIe, KLmYwK, AKnQO, QEmbS, XJJtN, SBl,
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